Banteay Srei Temple

Banteay Srei Temple - Top choice hindu temple in Banteay Srei District

Considered by many to be the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art, Banteay Srei is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving anywhere on earth. Begun in AD 967, it is one of the smallest sites at Angkor, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in stature.The art gallery of Angkor, Banteay Srei, a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, is wonderfully well preserved and many of its carvings are three-dimensional.

Banteay Srei means ‘Citadel of the Women’ and it is said that it must have been built by a woman, as the elaborate carvings are supposedly too fine for the hand of a man.

Banteay Srei is one of the few temples around Angkor to be commissioned not by a king but by a brahman, who may have been a tutor to Jayavarman V. The temple is square and has entrances at the east and west, with the east approached by a causeway. Of interest are the lavishly decorated libraries and the three central towers, which are decorated with male and female divinities and beautiful filigree relief work.

Classic carvings at Banteay Srei include delicate women with lotus flowers in hand and traditional skirts clearly visible, as well as breathtaking re-creations of scenes from the epic Ramayana adorning the library pediments (carved inlays above a lintel). However, the sum of the parts is no greater than the whole – almost every inch of these interior buildings is covered in decoration. Standing watch over such perfect creations are the mythical guardians, all of which are copies of originals stored in the National Museum.

Banteay Srei was the first major temple restoration undertaken by the EFEO in 1930 using the anastylosis method. The project, as evidenced today, was a major success and soon led to other larger projects such as the restoration of Bayon. Banteay Srei is also the first to have been given a full makeover in terms of facilities, with a large car park, a designated dining and shopping area, clear visitor information and a state-of-the-art exhibition on the history of the temple and its restoration. There is also a small baray (reservoir) behind the temple where local boat trips (US$7 per boat) are possible through the lotus pond.

When Banteay Srei was first rediscovered, it was assumed to be from the 13th or 14th centuries, as it was thought that the refined carving must have come at the end of the Angkor period. It was later dated to AD 967, from inscriptions found at the site.

Banteay Srei is about 32km northeast of Siem Reap and 21km northeast of Bayon. Banteay Srei is well signposted and the road is surfaced all the way, so a trip from Siem Reap should take about 45 minutes by car or one hour by remork-moto. Moto and remork-moto drivers will want a bit of extra cash to come out here, so agree on a sum first. You can eat at one of several small restaurants, complete with ornate wood furnishings cut from Cambodia’s forests, near the entrance to the temple.

There's plenty to do in Banteay Srei district as well as several homestays should you wish to stay and explore the area. It is possible to combine a visit to Banteay Srei as part of a long day trip to the River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean and Beng Mealea. A half-day itinerary might include Banteay Srei, the Cambodia Landmine Museum and Banteay Samre. It takes 45 minutes to explore Banteay Srei temple, but allow 90 minutes to visit the information centre and explore the area.

Article Credit: Lonely Planet

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Tonle Sap Area

Visiting Tonle Sap lake is to see diversity of things on the water. You will enjoy seeing so many kinds of things when you take the tour to the southern part of Siem Reap province -- it is so-called Tonle Sap. Please check and see what Tonsle Sap has for your tour:

Floating Villages

Several communities of people are living on the Tonle Sap Lake. There are four main villages that are accessible from Siem Reap and a variety of ways to get there. The villages: Chong Kneas, Mechrey, Kampong Phluk and Kampong Khleang are described in detail below.

Chong Kneas

Chong Kneas is the closest village to access from Siem Reap, approx. 16 km. Consisting of stilted houses and also floating houses, which are regularly moved around according to water levels. Chong Kneas is also the boat terminal for Battambang and Phnom Penh.

Chong Kneas is largely set up to serve Korean tourists, as such there are numerous Korean restaurants. It is also a common place for rice scams. The boat tours are not owned by the local community and the people living here see hardly any of the vast amounts of tourist money coming in.

In short, unless you’re planning to travel by boat to Battambang or Phnom Penh, there’s probably not much else here of interest.

Kampong Phluk

Kampong Phluk, which literally means “harbour of the tusks”, is actually 3 villages, with mainly stilted houses, that line the main entrance to the Tonle Sap Lake from this area. It’s just over 30km from Siem Reap and can be easily managed in a half day trip. The community sustain themselves mainly on catching fish and shrimp, but also harvest some land crops during the dry season.

The road trip and also the river trip are relatively short compared to some of the other villages. A private company will ferry you through the village to the lake as that is the main destination. There aren’t any activities that tourists normally can do in Kampong Phluk as this is a working village and most of the people are focused on their own industry, quite separate to the tourism industry buzzing past their doors.

Literally going right past the houses of the locals can be interesting to view another way of life, but it can feel quite invasive as well, especially knowing these residents aren’t either involved in or receiving any benefit from the industry. However, nearby there are small boats that can take you around the mangroves, or flooded forest, which is a more authentic experience. There are also a few floating restaurants and stopping here also supports some of the local tourism industry.

Kampong Khleang

Kampong Khleang, literally meaning “harbour warehouse”, is a permanent stilted village around 50km southeast of Siem Reap. This village is the furthest away from Siem Reap of the villages often visited on the Tonle Sap Lake. As such, it doesn’t have the same volume of tourists visiting, which can be appealing if you want a more genuine experience and a more relaxed pace.

Kampong Khleang has both stilted and floating houses, as well as many other buildings to sustain this large community of approximately 6,000 people. The floating houses are moved according to the water levels of the Tonle Sap Lake. During the dry season, the houses are more or less on the lake’s edge.

The boat service here is owned and run by locals, meaning your money is supporting the local community. Beyond Unique Escapes and Triple A Adventures both run tours to Kampong Khleang. The Beyond Unique Escapes tour includes visiting the local market and a sticky rice producing village. It’s also possible to make your own way there by tuk tuk and hiring a boat once you arrive, giving you more flexibility with timing.

Mechrey

Mechrey floating village is located 25km southwest of Siem Reap and approximately half way to Prek Toal; also a floating village and the entry point into the Prek Toal Core Bird Reserve. Mechrey’s community lives from fishing, and more recently, the development of eco-tours.

As a newcomer to the tourism market, things are pretty grassroots level. However, many of the methods applied in other villages are evident in Mechrey – such as offering tourists the opportunity to buy rice for local orphans. Whilst this may seem like a kind and generous thing to do while travelling, it’s often causing more harm that help – think twice before donating in this way, it can be much more beneficial to donate money to a reputable organisation, like The Lake Clinic who provide medical support to communities on the Tonle Sap Lake.

It’s often said that the journey is prettier than the destination when it comes to Mechrey, however if the experience you seek is ‘real life’ then this is it. Your hotel or guesthouse can help you organize a private tuk tuk, alternatively try local tour companies like Hidden Cambodia Adventure Tours, Prek Toal Tour & Travel or Travel Loops.

Best Way to Visit a Floating Village

Research thoroughly before you go, there are a few pitfalls in visiting the villages on the Tonle Sap Lake.

Reputable Tour Operators

First of all, go with a reputable tour company such as Beyond Unique Escapes, Tara Boat, Sam Veasna Center or Triple A Adventures. These organisations run tours that will give you the best experience of the lake whilst being considerate of the people living there.

Beyond Unique Escapes as well as Triple A Adventures only run tours to Kampong Khleang, their choice for a responsible floating village visit.

Tara Boat do trips to Chong Kneas and Kampong Phluk, including a sunset dinner excursion. Their tours stick to a path that keeps interference of daily life on the lake to a minimum, only visiting established tourism sites.

Sam Veasna Center tours go to Chong Kneas and the flooded forest, as well as Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary. SVC provide educational tours and facilitate conservation of wildlife areas across Cambodia.

Responsible Tourism

Avoid visiting any schools, it is common for schools to plead for money to buy books or rice from tourists, however, the money is rarely used for what is claimed and may not benefit who or how you think. The best way to support communities in the Tonle Sap Lake region is to spend money at souvenir shops, restaurants or information centres. In the flooded forest, you can take a ride in a paddle boat and this is another source of local employment that benefits the community from tourism.

Article Credit: Siem Reap DOT NET

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Roluos Group

ROLUOS GROUP OF MONUMENTS

Three temples Bakong, Lolei and Preah Ko 11 Kilometers (6.8 miles) southeast of the Siem Reap Market, comprise the Roluos group of monuments they are close together and extend over an area of three kilometers ( 1.9 miles ) east of the Great Lake.

The Roluos group, dating from the late ninth century, is the earliest site of the 600 years Angkor Period that is open to visitors.

The three temples belonging to this important group have similar characteristics of architecture, decoration, materials and construction methods, which combine to reveal the beginning of the Classic Period of Khmer art.

Bakong Temple in Roluos Group

BACKGROUND

Roluos is the site of an ancient center of Khmer civilization known as Hariharalaya (the abode of Hari-hara'). Some 70 years after Jayavarman II established his capital on Mount Kulen in 802 inaugurating the Angkor Period, the king moved the king moved the capital to Hariharalaya, Perhaps for a better source of food or for defence purposed. He died at roluos in 850. It is generally believed that his successors remained there until the capital was moved to Bakheng in 905.

Architecture: The buildings of the Roluos Group are distinguished by tall square-shaped brick towers on pedestals. The open to the east, with false doors on the other three sides. As is typical of this period, brick was used for the towers and sandstone for carved areas such as columns, lintels and decorative niches.

A wall originally enclosed the temples though only traces remain today. It was intersected on two or more sides by an entry tower, an innovation of this period, of perhaps slightly earlier. The early examples were square with a tiered upper portion. The library also made also appearance at Roluos. It is a rectangular building with a curved roof and pediments. A temple often has two libraries, one on each side of the entry tower preceding the Central Sanctuary.

DECORATION: The characteristic decorative features of the Roluos group are: a Kala (monster head), the Hindu god Visnu on his mount the Garuda, female figures with abundant jewelry, and a preponderance of guardians and Apsaras. Columns are generally octagonal and intricately adorned with delicate leaves. Decoration on the lintels at Roluos is, according to some art historians, ' the most beautiful of all Khmer art '

Article Credit: Tourism Cambodia

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Koh Ker Pyramid

Koh Ker Temple - Hindu temple in Temples of Angkor

Abandoned to the forests of the north, Koh Ker, capital of the Angkorian empire from AD 928 to AD 944, is now within day-trip distance of Siem Reap. Most visitors start at Prasat Krahom where impressive stone carvings grace lintels, doorposts and slender window columns. The principal monument is Mayan-looking Prasat Thom, a 55m-wide, 40m-high sandstone-faced pyramid whose seven tiers offer spectacular views across the forest. Koh Ker is 127km northeast of Siem Reap.

Long one of Cambodia’s most remote and inaccessible temple complexes, the opening of a toll road from Dam Dek (via Beng Mealea) has placed Koh Ker (pronounced ko-kaye) within striking distance of Siem Reap. To really appreciate the temples – the ensemble has 42 major structures in an area that measures 9km by 4km – it’s necessary to spend at least one night.

Prasat Krahom (Red Temple), the second-largest structure at Koh Ker, is so named for the red bricks from which it is constructed. Sadly, none of the carved lions for which this temple was once known remain, though there’s still plenty to see, with stone archways and galleries leaning hither and thither. A naga-flanked causeway and a series of sanctuaries, libraries and gates lead past trees and vegetation-covered ponds. Just west of Prasat Krahom, at the far western end of a half-fallen colonnade, are the remains (most of the head) of a statue of Nandin.

The principal monument at Koh Ker is Prasat Thom (also known as Prasat Kompeng). The staircase to the top is open to a limited number of visitors and the views are spectacular if you can stomach the heights. Some 40 inscriptions, dating from 932 to 1010, have been found here.

South of this central group is a 1185m-by-548m baray known as the Rahal. It is fed by the Sen River, which supplied water to irrigate the land in this arid area.

Some of the largest Shiva linga in Cambodia can still be seen in four temples about 1km northeast of Prasat Thom. The largest is found in Prasat Thneng, while Prasat Leung is similarly well endowed.

Among the many other temples that are found around Koh Ker, Prasat Bram is a real highlight. It consists of a collection of brick towers, at least two of which have been completely smothered by voracious strangler figs; the probing roots cut through the brickwork like liquid mercury.

Koh Ker is one of the least-studied temple areas from the Angkorian period. Louis Delaporte visited in 1880 during his extensive investigations into Angkorian temples. It was surveyed in 1921 by the great Henri Parmentier for an article in the Bulletin de l'École d'Extrême Orient, but no restoration work was ever undertaken here. Archaeological surveys were carried out by Cambodian teams in the 1950s and 1960s. But all records vanished during the destruction of the 1970s, helping to preserve this complex as something of an enigma.

Several of the most impressive pieces in the National Museum in Phnom Penh come from Koh Ker, including the huge garuda (mythical half-man, half-bird creature) that greets visitors in the entrance hall and a unique carving depicting a pair of wrestling monkey-kings.

Article Credit: Lonely Planet

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Beng Mealea Temple

Beng Mealea Temple - Buddhist temple in Temples of Angkor

A spectacular sight to behold, Beng Mealea, located about 68km northeast of Siem Reap, is one of the most mysterious temples at Angkor, as nature has well and truly run riot. Exploring this titanic of temples, built to the same floorplan as Angkor Wat, is the ultimate Indiana Jones experience. Built in the 12th century under Suryavarman II, Beng Mealea is enclosed by a massive moat measuring 1.2km by 900m.

The temple used to be utterly consumed by jungle, but some of the dense foliage has been cut back and cleaned up in recent years. Entering from the south, visitors wend their way over piles of finely chiselled sandstone blocks, through long, dark chambers and between hanging vines. The central tower has completely collapsed, but hidden away among the rubble and foliage are several impressive carvings, as well as a well-preserved library in the northeastern quadrant. The temple is a special place and it is worth taking the time to explore it thoroughly – Apsara caretakers can show you where rock-hopping and climbing is permitted. The large wooden walkway to and around the centre was originally constructed for the filming of Jean-Jacques Annaud’s Two Brothers (2004), set in 1920s French Indochina and starring two tiger cubs.

There are several very basic, unmarked family homestays a few hundred metres behind the restaurants opposite the temple entrance. The best restaurant is Romduol Angkor II, a sister restaurant to the Romduol Angkor near Sra Srang. Wholesome Cambodian food is on offer, plus ice-cold drinks.

It costs US$5 to visit Beng Mealea and there are additional small charges for transport, so make sure you work out in advance with the driver or guide who is paying for these. There are stop-and-dip food stalls (dishes US$2 to US$4).

Beng Mealea is about 40km east of Bayon (as the crow flies) and 6.5km southeast of Phnom Kulen. By road it is about 68km (one hour by car, longer by moto or remork-moto) from Siem Reap. The shortest route is via the junction town of Dam Dek, located on NH6 about 37km from Siem Reap in the direction of Phnom Penh. Turn north immediately after the market and continue on this road for 31km. The entrance to the temple lies just beyond the left-hand turn to Koh Ker. Allow a half day to visit, including the journey time from Siem Reap or combine it with Koh Ker in a long day trip best undertaken by car or 4WD.

Beng Mealea is at the centre of an ancient Angkorian road connecting Angkor Thom and Preah Khan in Preah Vihear Province, now evocatively numbered route 66. A small Angkorian bridge just west of Chau Srei Vibol temple is the only remaining trace of the old Angkorian road between Beng Mealea and Angkor Thom; between Beng Mealea and Preah Khan there are at least 10 bridges abandoned in the forest. This is a way for extreme adventurers to get to Preah Khan temple, but do not undertake this journey lightly.

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Kbal Spean

KBAL SPEAN WATERFALL - SECRET WATERFALL ON THE MOUNTAIN

A spectacularly carved riverbed, Kbal Spean is set deep in the jungle to the northeast of Angkor. More commonly referred to in English as the ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’, the name actually means ‘bridgehead’, a reference to the natural rock bridge at the site. Lingas (phallic symbols) have been elaborately carved into the riverbed, and images of Hindu deities are dotted about the area. Kbal Spean was ‘discovered’ in 1969, when ethnologist Jean Boulbet was shown the area by a hermit.

It is a 2km uphill walk to the carvings, along a pretty path that winds its way up into the jungle, passing by some interesting boulder formations along the way. Carry plenty of water up the hill, as there is none available beyond the parking area. The path eventually splits to the waterfall or the river carvings. There is an impressive carving of Vishnu on the upper section of the river, followed by a series of carvings at the bridgehead itself, some of which were hacked off in the past few years, but have since been replaced by excellent replicas. This area is now roped off to protect the carvings from further damage.

Following the river down, there are several more impressive carvings of Vishnu, and Shiva with his consort Uma, and further downstream hundreds of lingas appear on the riverbed. At the top of the waterfall are many animal images, including a cow and a frog, and a path winds around the boulders to a wooden staircase leading down to the base of the falls. Visitors between January and June will be disappointed to see very little water here. The best time to visit is between July and December. When exploring Kbal Spean it is best to start with the river carvings and work back down to the waterfall to cool off. From the car park, the visit takes about two hours including the walk, nearer three hours with a natural shower or a picnic. A day trip here can be combined with Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity, Banteay Srei temple and the Cambodia Landmine Museum.

Kbal Spean is about 50km northeast of Siem Reap or about 18km beyond the temple of Banteay Srei. The road is now excellent, as it forms part of the new road north to Anlong Veng and the Thai border, so it takes just one hour or so from town. There are food stalls at the bottom of the hill that can cook up fried rice or a noodle soup, or the fancier, excellent Borey Sovann Restaurant, located near the entrance.

Moto drivers will no doubt want a bit of extra money to take you here, such as US$15 or so for the day, including a trip to Banteay Srei. Likewise, remork-moto drivers will probably up the price to US$25 or so. A surcharge is also levied to come out here by car. Admission to Kbal Spean is included in the general Angkor pass; the last entry to the site is at 3.30pm.

Article Credit: Lonely Planet

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Kulen Mountain

KULEN MOUNTAIN - WATERFALL ON THE TOP OF MOUNTAIN

Considered by Khmers to be the most sacred mountain in Cambodia, Phnom Kulen is a popular place of pilgrimage on weekends and during festivals. It played a significant role in the history of the Khmer empire, as it was from here in AD 802 that Jayavarman II proclaimed himself a devaraja (god-king), giving birth to the Cambodian kingdom. Attractions include a giant reclining Buddha, hundreds of lingas carved in the riverbed, an impressive waterfall and some remote temples.

The entry fee of US$20 is ambitious compared with what you get for your money at Angkor. From the entrance a sealed road winds its way through some spectacular jungle scenery, emerging on the plateau after a 12km ascent. The road eventually splits: the left fork leads to the picnic spot, waterfall and ruins of a 9th-century temple; the right fork continues over a bridge (you'll find the riverbed carvings around here) to the base of Wat Preah Ang Thom, which sits at the summit of the mountain and houses the large reclining Buddha carved into the sandstone boulder upon which it is built. This is the focal point of a pilgrimage for Khmer people, so it is important to take off your shoes and any head covering before climbing the stairs to the sanctuary. These days the views from the 487m peak are partially obstructed by foliage run amok.

The waterfall is an attractive spot and was featured in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. However, it could be much more beautiful were it not for all the litter left here by families picnicking at the weekend. Near the top of the waterfall is a jungle-clad temple known as Prasat Krau Romeas, dating from the 9th century.

There are plenty of other Angkorian sites on Phnom Kulen, including as many as 20 minor temples around the plateau, the most important of which is Prasat Rong Chen, the first pyramid or temple-mountain to be constructed in the Angkor area. Most impressive of all are the giant stone animals or guardians of the mountain, known as Sra Damrei (Elephant Pond). These are quite difficult to reach, particularly during the wet season. The few people who make it, however, are rewarded with a life-size replica of a stone elephant – a full 4m long and 3m tall – and smaller statues of lions, a frog and a cow. These were constructed on the southern face of the mountain and from here there are spectacular views across the plains below. Getting to Sra Damrei requires taking a moto from Wat Preah Ang Thom for about 12km on very rough trails. From here it is a 1km walk to the animals through the forest. Don’t try to find it on your own; expect to pay the moto driver about US$10 for a half day exploring this area and carry plenty of water. Other impressive sites that could be included in an adventurous day trip around Phnom Kulen include the ancient rock carvings of Poeng Tbal, an atmospheric site of enormous boulders, and the partially restored temple of Damrei Krap.

Phnom Kulen is a huge plateau around 50km from Siem Reap and about 15km from Banteay Srei. To get here on the toll road, take the well-signposted right fork just before Banteay Srei village and go straight ahead at the crossroads. Just before the road starts to climb the mountain, there is a barrier and it is here that the US$20 charge is levied. It is possible to buy a ticket in advance at the City Angkor Hotel in Siem Reap, but this no longer saves you any money. It is only possible to go up Phnom Kulen before 11am and only possible to come down after midday, to avoid vehicles meeting on the narrow road. There are plenty of small restaurants and food stalls located around the parking area at the base of Wat Preah Ang Thom.

Moto drivers are likely to want about US$20 or more to bring you out here, and rented cars will hit passengers with a surcharge, more than double the going rate for Angkor; forget coming by remork-moto as the hill climb is just too tough. With the long journey here, it is best to plan on spending the best part of a day exploring, although it can be combined with either Banteay Srei or Beng Mealea.

Article Credit: Lonely Planet

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